Welcome to MOTHER NOURISH – the home of wholistic + realistic nourishment.
I’m Emine – an award-winning health editor + wellbeing author, as well as being a qualified yoga therapist, Ayurvedic consultant + holistic skin therapist (I no longer practice, but pour my experience into my writing, instead).
Here at MOTHER NOURISH, I write about our growing need for nourishment, collectively & personally – as a mid-40s mother of two beauteous, neurodivergent kids, who’s also beginning to experience perimenopause.
Week after week, I explore the ways in which we can stop relegating our own core needs, and move into a place where we feel truly resourced, cared-for, resilient, and yes, deeply, wholistically nourished.
No more burnt crusts + crumbs at the end of each day… we deserve the whole slice of Hot Buttered Toast!
This week, we explore holistic, intuitive, gentle + natural ways to care for the skin…
I once had the joy of sitting on a panel of natural cosmetics experts (of whom I was certainly the least qualified), to discuss the topic of ‘Conscious Beauty.’ Beside me were Imelda Burke, founder of Content Beauty & Wellbeing, an online retail destination, with the most stringent control re ‘clean’ cosmetics I’ve thus far encountered (her bricks & mortar store in Marylebone, is a conscious beauty haven, too), and author of The Nature of Beauty – a practical guide for all of us seeking to make more informed and safer choices re our cosmetics; Helen Lynn, a health advisor to WEN, the Women’s Environmental Network, a phenomenal group who seek to inspire women to make environmentally sound and safe choices; and Dr Mark Smith who is also the Director General of NATRUE, and has an interdisciplinary PhD in chemistry and genetics.
The discussion was chaired by Jayn Sterland, the MD of Weleda, a company that has championed ‘clean beauty’ since their birth in 1921 – based on the ‘beyond organic’ biodynamic principles of farming and creation of natural formulations.
Already, I have used some wooly terms. ‘Clean beauty,’ ‘green beauty,’ and ‘natural’. None of these are legal terms, which means that they are not very helpful in guiding us around the shelves and aisles. I do talk about natural, often, in my line of work – as former editor of oh mag, and previously, in my role as Wellbeing Director at Psychologies magazine for 10 years. I am also a trained and qualified facial therapist, and though I am not presently practising, I come to my wellbeing work as an editor, author & therapist with a focus on holistic care, from the inside-out.
For all of these reasons, I feel a vested interest in empowering citizens to make mindful, conscious choices and to avoid having the wool pulled over their eyes by companies that are true experts at greenwashing.
For me, a good place to begin before I buy is to ask for percentages. A 100% natural product has become the benchmark for me these days – and it is easily attainable; the natural beauty market is booming, and new products are launching each and every week. For those seeking to swap out their synthetic cosmetics in favour of all-natural alternatives, we also have other help at hand – the resources I most often turn to when seeking clarity on the ingredients within the products I choose to buy are EWG.org and their Skin Deep app, Skin Ninja (app) and Think Dirty (app). Simply scan a product’s barcode via the app, and get a clear picture of what goes into it, and if there is anything to be concerned about. When the product is not already listed within the inventory, you can add it yourself, or check out the individual ingredients, which are listed by hazard/toxicity level, in line with the most recent studies into said ingredients.
EWG is particularly robust here, as it very regularly updates its ingredients inventory based on breakthrough research – but it is US based, so it is important to check the EU-versions of your purchases, if you have bought them in the EU. As a side note, US formulations are often markedly different from EU ones – mainly because in order to become an EU-compliant cosmetic, you must go through a very lengthly and cost-prohibitive compliance procedure, which roots out up to 1328 banned chemicals. The US, meanwhile, bans only 11 chemicals in total (so, also worth bearing in mind if you’re in the habit of stockpiling while in the States, or importing US products yourself).
When it comes to consumer choice, then, consciousness is key. Each member of the panel was asked what ‘conscious beauty’ meant to them. Our answers all intersected and overlapped. For me, it is about a choice that chimes with my ethics and values. We are all of us, simply the product of the choices we make. I may choose to buy local, support independent business, buy fair trade, and avoid plastic. These choices are conscious on my part, because I do not wish to leave a lasting, muddy footprint on the earth I inhabit. I have two daughters, and some understanding of the natural wisdom within our own bodies and cells, and the delicate balance at play within our many ‘biomes’ – from our gut, to our skin. I do not want to interfere with what nature has already bestowed on us – healthy immunity, robust and clear skin, resilient bodies and vital organs.
Sadly, these beautiful bodies of ours are often testing grounds for dozens of questionable cosmetics. The average woman in the UK uses up to 17 products, every single day. It immediately sounds a lot – but consider: shampoo, conditioner, face wash, moisturiser, toothpaste, deodorant, body wash, body cream, foundation, lipstick, mascara… you can see how it very quickly adds up. Much of what we use is based upon nothing other than habit. We begin, in our early teens, to become so very impressionable to marketing and messaging – very few of us actually stop to wonder if our young girls should ‘naturally’ want to wear make-up, apply perfume, scented body lotion and anti-perspirant. The prevalent beauty norm is one of artifice – concealing, contouring, layering, scenting and masking – beauty’s own language speaks volumes.
For me, conscious beauty is about a return to the foundations of our own natural beauty, radiance and health. It is acceptance of our skin, our body, our essence – and the confidence that comes with that. I love a bright lipstick and do wear make-up several times a week, but my choices, now, are incredibly simple, all natural, and, I feel, empowering. The ritual behind the product, matters to me too. An all-natural body oil – brimming with vitamins, omegas, essential oils – is transporting and nourishing. Applying this, feels like the act of self-care it really is. I know that I would not feel that way if I were applying a synthetically fragranced petroleum-based oil. There is no affinity there – neither with spirit, nor skin. One is a stranger to the other.
So… what do I opt out of? What constitutes a conscious ‘cleaner’ choice for me?
I avoid mineral oil. Petroleum/petrolatum/pariffinum liquidum – all by-products of the petrol industry. They have no cosmetic benefits, other than those to the cost-cutting manufacturer – being inert and stable (so they will not ‘react’ at all – they can sit on a shelf for years), and very, very cheap. What they can be helpful for, however, is simply providing a waterproof + occlusive barrier to skin as it heals, or to keep water off and away from compromised skin. All prescription emollient creams are very high in mineral oil… from E45 to Vaseline, and they can do the job they need to do, short-term, but will not interact with skin in a way that will actually help it heal. For a lot of people with chronic skin conditions, breaking the mineral-oil emollient cream cycle is really hard, and things can get worse before they get better (something I’ll explore more in a future post…) ♥️
I choose not to use antiperspirant, which blocks off a natural biological function with heavy metals – interfering not only with our sensitive bio-regulatory and thermostatic responses (we sweat for a reason!), but also builds up within our sweat glands – heavy metals, such as aluminium, the mainstay of commercial antiperspirant – which do not break down, wash away or excrete. All this, so close to our delicate breast tissue and lymph nodes… I find this deeply worrying, and stopped using anti-perspirant 15 years ago. Brilliant natural deodorants that keep me fresh all day long (and I DO sweat quite a bit) are hard to find… I’ve used & recommended The Natural Deo Co, Aurelia Natural Deodorant, and WILD before… I’m presently using AKT, which is pricey… it does however, keep me fresh-smelling even on days when I sweat repeatedly (often if nervous or excited or just overly hot!)… for that reason I think it’s probably the most effective one I’ve used thus far.
I choose not to use any synthetic body washes or lotions or creams. I oil my skin, twice a day, with raw virgin coconut oil if it needs cooling and soothing, or rose or calendula oil if it needs cosseting and nourishing (both in an organic base oil of olive, sweet almond). When my skin became madly sensitive, I went back to Lavera All Over Cream, which is SO wonderfully thick & DEEPLY hydrating. I’ve gone through three tins of it in three months because I am moisturising a few times a day to keep my skin from drying out/becoming sensitised (it costs less than £10 for a 150ml tin, so relatively affordable).
No one needs scented washes to wash their intimate areas, but if a body wash is used, it is 100% natural, and always free of SLS and SLES – the foaming surfactants which are not only common skin irritants, but also non-biodegradable. They rinse down our plug holes and out into our waterways, rivers and seasides… creating a cumulative froth that rims our waterways, and will not be broken down any time soon. Body washes I like include Sukin and Madara.
I choose not to use anything containing PEGs (polyethylene glycols). PEGs have been regularly found to be contaminated with 1.4 Dioxane and Ethylene Oxide, which the International Agency for Cancer have labelled ‘possible human carcinogens.’ In a study of 100 products marketed as ‘natural’, 46 were found to be contaminated with 1.4 dioxane – SO, remember, always check that INCI list, and don’t let a ‘natural’ label fool you into thinking that you are buying a worry-free product. Ask for percentages, check ingredients, use your apps & websites, and if still in doubt, ask a certifying body, such as NATRUE, to check it out for you.
I try to avoid parabens. In spite of some heated discussions with chemists re the fact that parabens can occur in nature, I take the line below – cautiously pessimistic, is my ethos when it comes to cosmetics! “The fact is that parabens do exist rarely in nature, but it is highly misleading to claim that they are a common constituent of fruits or vegetables,” state the Environmental Working Group. Meanwhile, a growing body of scientific evidence lends credence to health concerns from paraben exposure. Increasing evidence has drawn attention to their possible health risks, primarily their potential to disrupt the endocrine system, which can interfere with the normal functioning of hormones,” say EWG.
I very rarely paint my nails. If I do, I choose 10-free brands (although, to be honest, 10-free is a green-wash in parts, because it is already illegal to formulate products that contain known carcinogens formaldehyde and formaldehyde-resin (you’d hope so, wouldn’t you). I also avoid toulene, DBP (dibutyl pthalates) Triphenyl Phosphate and camphor (which, if inhaled, can make you feel nauseous). Kure Bazaar’s latest collection is 10-free, and 90 per cent natural (they have also removed benzophenone -1 and -3, the toxic chemical used to prevent colour fading). I’ve also recently used Nailberry and Manicurist products… both of which have lots of info on their websites re what they do + don’t use.
I avoid chemical sunscreens – the nastiest of which, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate, have now been banned by Hawaii, who proved that both have had devastating effects on the marine environments around this tropical US state. A study in 2015, published in the journal Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, found the chemicals have a range of effects on coral, including mortality in developing coral, bleaching of coral and genetic damage to coral and other organisms. It also found both chemicals can induce feminisation in adult male fish and increase reproductive diseases in creatures from sea urchins to parrotfish and mammal species similar to the Hawaiian monk seal. The chemicals can also induce neurological behavioural changes in fish and have possible impact on the many endangered species found in Hawaii’s waters, including sea turtles. The study found oxybenzone had a toxic effect at a concentration of 62 parts per trillion – equivalent to one drop in six-and-a-half Olympic-size swimming pools. Do we want to be putting this on our bodies? I presently use SUNLY fragrance-free SPF for myself + the kids (made by Attitude, who are EWG-verified; FYI their shampoos + conditioners are also FAB!); I also use Madara suncare.
I avoid commercial toothpastes. Most contain SLS, for that foaming action once again, and some even contain triclosan – a synthetic antibacterial agent, which can be found in household cleaning products and hand sanitisers. Given the delicacy of our gums and sub-lingual system – where anything that comes into contact with that area, which contains small enough particles, is absorbed into the bloodstream, it seems a sensible move. I like Lavera toothpaste… and am also trying the BOKA toothpastes.
I also avoid fluoride – based, once again, on this report published by EWG. “During the last 15-20 years there has been a revolution in our understanding of fluoride’s effects on teeth. It is now well-established that fluoride exposure is directly and proportionately related to dental fluorosis, a range of adverse health effect that includes mottling, pitting, and weakening of the teeth (Fejerskov 1994; Heller 1997; NRC 2006). At the same time, fluoride helps prevent tooth decay (Aoba 2002; Featherstone 2000). Fluoride is believed to have contributed to the decline of tooth decay (cavities, also called dental caries) in many developed countries (CDC 2008; Kumar 2008). On the other hand, early exposure to fluoride poses undeniable health risks to children (NRC 2006; Sohn 2008). In the U.S. and worldwide, about 30 percent of children who drink fluoridated water experience dental fluorosis (Brunelle 1987; Heller 1997; Khan 2005). Strong concerns have been also raised about fluoride exposure and the risk of bone cancer (osteosarcoma), adverse effects on the thyroid function, and lowered IQ in children (NRC 2006). The risks of fluoride are especially high for infants, prompting the American Dental Association (ADA) to issue an “Interim Guidance on Fluoride Intake for Infants and Young Children. ADA recommended that in areas where fluoride is added to tap water, parents should consider using fluoride-free bottled water to reconstitute concentrated or powdered infant formula (ADA 2006).” So, from the water we drink at home (I use a Berkey Water Filter), to the toothpaste we choose (Weleda Calendula or Salt; Comvita Propolis and Tea Tree; Kingfisher Mint), this is what informs our choices.
AND, all of this before we’ve even had a chance to look at packaging, carbon footprints, animal testing, sustainability, sourcing, fair trade… there is a so much to consider, and my aim is to begin diving ever-deeper into this complex, cloudy topic over the coming months, here at MOTHER NOURISH.
To end, then… the list of what & whom I choose to trust, is, hearteningly, short: 100% natural products, where the entire product is certified by Demeter (the Biodynamic certification), NATRUE, Cosmos or Ecocert. I also respect the work of The Soil Association, but be wary of buying products that contain only a few certified ingredients (though they may still carry a logo) if they are being used with a mixture of other non-organic, non-certified or non-natural products.
I also trust those simplest things that I make at home, or buy in their wholly untampered states – cold-pressed organic base oils, such as sunflower, coconut, almond, grapeseed – do all from condition hair, to remove make-up.
Secondly – and as an editor of 20 years who has always championed naturals – there is also the relationship that can blossom between brand and customer – and which can go on to inform those choices we make, in a way that feels as though we are welcoming things into our family (because they have almost become part of the family). There are brands I trust, inherently. I know how they operate, I am familiar with their sustainability models, I love what the stand for and how they give back. I also love how they formulate, and the clarity, transparency and purity of their products. I have included a top 20 list of them below – but you can also find many more at my favourite reputable ‘clean beauty’ destinations, Content Beauty & Wellbeing, Love Lula, Glow Organic, and A Beautiful World.
Weleda
Therapie Roques O’Neil
NEOM
de Mamiel
Fushi
Madara
Kjaer Weiss
Inika Cosmetics
RMS Beauty
Absolution Cosmetics
Josh Rosebrook
Lavera
Neal’s Yard Remedies
TWELVE beauty
May Lindstrom
MV Skin Therapy
Inlight Beauty
Dr Hauschka
Amly
Aurelia
Dr Alkaitis
Dr Bronner
Evolve Skincare
S5 Skincare
I hope you’ve enjoyed this (lengthy!) introduction to holistic skincare – and now… onto this week’s video – where I focus more on generalised recommendations, and learning how to read + respond + work alongside your skin, to give it what it needs, and to not interfere with all of its own wise, intuitive + effective processes.
This video is an edited down version of a 90-minute video so it begins with a couple of seconds of silence, before the sound kicks in – don’t worry, it’s not a glitch! – I’ve just cut it down to a neat hour because it contains all the ‘juice’ – including practical massage sequences, and skincare routine steps, based on how your skin is, day by day.
For a bit of background: I trained at the London College of Beauty Therapy, after 15 years as a health & beauty journalist (9 years of those spent as Psychologies magazine’s Health, Wellness & Beauty Director). I’ve always been utterly FASCINATED by skin… it is such an immensely communicative organ, and learning its language has brought me so much satisfaction, alongside being able to understand WHY it may be communicating in certain ways, and what our body/skin is actually ASKING from us, in response.
My facial work was a natural, beautiful antidote to the computer-based work I do as a writer and editor – in my therapy room in Kent, natural light flooding in, no phones, silently working, treating, intuiting – I love that things could just flow, and I got to stay completely focused on what I am doing.
I feel the same each morning and evening, when I stand in front of the bathroom mirror, massage oil into my skin, really taking the time to stroke up between my brows, along my jaw, thumb-circling my chin and clearing the pressure from my sinuses. I use gua sha and rollers most mornings to boost circulation. I love stroking around my cheeks, jaw and brows where I hold a lot of tension.
One of my real life + career highs came through getting to combine my love of writing + interest in skin + health in collaboration with Weleda in order to write the book Natural Wellness Every Day – which has a REALLY rich + in-depth section on skin; I’d say of all the books I’ve read (100s and 100s) on skin and ‘natural beauty’, it is this book, and Absolute Beauty by Pratima Raichur, which cover skin in the most wholistic depth.
For now then, I shall leave you to watch the video… I hope you enjoy it, and please, if any Qs come up while watching, don’t hesitate to drop me a comment and I’ll do my best to respond in a timely manner ☺️
Want to learn more about skin? You may like to read these posts too…
Thanks so much for reading & listening!
For those new to MOTHER NOURISH, I send out two letters every week – YIN + TONIC on a Wednesday evening (a simple, single-shot of midweek goodness; often a video/audio practice to try at home), and HOT BUTTERED TOAST on a Sunday morning, which deep-dives into Heart, Home, Food & Body/Skin, combining my 20+ years in health + wellness, with my ever-evolving path towards sustained + sustainable choices rooted in self-respect, love + care.
Coming up in YIN + TONIC (every Wednesday @ 5pm)
I’ll be sharing the most BEAUTIFUL Spring Sound Bath, by one of my dearest friends, Alice Rose. I have been playing it night after night this week, and it has REALLY helped top up my cup, and helped me sleep more deeply after a short bout of work-stress-induced insomnia 🥱. I hope you love it as much as I do!
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